Introducing El Salvador

    El Salvador sneaks up on you: in lefty lounge bars in San Salvador, at sobering museums and war memorials, and along lush cloud-forest trails; it's a place of remarkable warmth and intelligence, made all the more appealing for being so unexpected. Travellers tend to skip El Salvador, wooed by marquee destinations such as Guatemala and Costa Rica, and unnerved by stories of civil war and gang violence. But the war ended almost 20 years ago, and crime, while serious, is almost exclusively played out between rival gangs; tourists are virtually never involved. And though El Salvador has fewer protected areas than its neighbors, you get them practically to yourself – including pristine forests, active volcanoes and sparkling lakes. The only place you might find a crowd is on Punta Roca, El Salvador’s most famous surfing spot – it happens to be one of the best right point breaks in the world, yet is a ghost town compared to lesser swells in Costa Rica and elsewhere. And when it comes to cities, none in Central America is smarter or cooler than San Salvador, with first-rate universities, museums and galleries, a vibrant bar and live-music scene, and an array of progressive NGOs, both local and international.
Getting there & away
El Salvador's immigration officials are more discerning - and the border procedures more sophisticated - than those of most other Central American countries. They're fair, but they do scrutinize entry and exit stamps, so avoid cutting corners.
Contents

• 　　Sea
• 　　Land
• 　　Entering the destination
• 　　Air

    Sea 　　El Salvador shares shoreline on the Golfo de Fonseca with Honduras and Nicaragua. It's possible to go by boat from La Unión (El Salvador) to Coyolito, Amapala or San Lorenzo in Honduras, or to Potosí in Nicaragua. However there is no scheduled passenger boat service, so you would have to hire a private boat at a very high price. A car-ferry-turned-booze-cruise from La Unión stops in Amapala once a month, and you may be able to use this as a way to get to Honduras. Going by boat is more interesting, perhaps, but does not save any time since the land crossings are so close.
Land
Bus
There are three first-class international bus lines connecting El Salvador to other Central American capitals. There are also a number of second-class bus lines, but it is highly recommended you take a first-class line, as much for safety as for comfort. The second-class buses stop more often, and make much easier targets for would-be bandits in El Salvador or another country.
Guatemala
Border crossings to Guatemala are La Hachadura, Las Chinamas, San Cristóbal (all in the west) and Anguiatú (north of Metapán). Ordinary buses make it just to the border; international buses continue to Guatemala City.
Ordinary buses to the Guatemalan border crossings all leave San Salvador from the Terminal de Occidente, connecting through Sonsonate, Santa Ana, Ahuachapán or Metapán.
For La Hachadura take bus No 205 to Sonsonate, transfer to bus No 259 to the border; for Las Chinamas take bus No 202 to Ahuachapán (from Santa Ana use bus 210) and transfer to bus No 263; and for San Cristóbal take bus No 498 at 4:10pm, 4:50pm and 5:20pm Monday to Friday, plus 7:20am on Monday and Friday only, and Saturday at 12:20pm. There's no service on Sunday. For Anguiatú take bus No 201A direct, or 201 to San Salvador and transfer to No 235. In Metapán transfer to a microbus to the border.
Pullmantur has two daily buses to Guatemala City (executive/first-class US$26/41, 4½ hours, 7am and 3pm Monday to Saturday, 8:30am and 3pm Sunday), while Tica Bus has just one bus daily (US$11, five hours, 6am), passing its Zona Rosa stop a half-hour later. King Quality/Comfort Lines has first-class service to Guatemala City on Comfort Lines (US$22, five hours, 7:30am and 1:30pm) and the slightly more upscale King Quality (first/'King' class US$26/33, five hours, 6am and 3:30pm). Second-class buses leave Terminal Puerto Bus for Guatemala City (standard US$10, five hours, every hour 4am to 3pm; executive US$13, five hours, 6am and 4:30pm).
Honduras
Border crossings to Honduras include El Poy, El Amatillo and Sabanetas/Perquín. Note that there is no Salvadoran immigration post at the Sabanetas/Perquín border. This means your passport will not be stamped when you leave El Salvador - no big deal if you're not planning to return this trip, but it could cause complications if you are. It is not recommended to enter here until an official immigration post is established, as you risk being fined for entering illegally.
Ordinary buses to the Honduran border at El Poy leave from the Terminal de Oriente in San Salvador every half-hour from 4am to 4pm (Bus No 119). Buses to El Amatillo (No 306 or 346) leave frequently from the Terminal de Oriente in San Salvador and from San Miguel. There is twice-daily service to Marcala, Honduras, via Perquín and Sabanetas.
Pullmantur buses leave every day for Tegucigalpa at 2:15pm (executive/first-class US$27/45, 6½ hours). King Quality has services there at 6am and 1:30pm (first/'King' class US$28/41, six hours, 6am and 1:30pm), and San Pedro Sula at 5am and 12:30pm (first/'King' US$28/41, six hours). Tica Bus has a once-daily service to Tegucigalpa at 5:30am (US$15, six hours). You can transfer to a San Pedro Sula bus from there, but it's quicker and cheaper to take the direct King Quality bus.
Nicaragua
From the Honduran side of the El Amatillo crossing, you can take microbuses across the southern tip of Honduras to the Nicaraguan border town of Guasaule (US$4, two hours). From there, connect to buses to León and Managua.
King Quality has one daily departure to Managua (first/'King' US$28/42, 10½ hours, 11:30am) as does Tica Bus (US$25, 11 hours, 5am).
Costa Rica & Panama
King Quality has a once-daily service to San José, Costa Rica (US$48, 18 hours, 3:30am). The Tica Bus to San José (US$42, 18 hours, 3am) continues to Panama City (US$61, 36 hours).
Mexico
The Tica Bus that runs to Guatemala City continues to the Mexican border at Tapachula, Chiapas. From San Salvador, the trip takes 12 hours and costs US$23 one way. There's also second-class service to Tapachula from Terminal Puerto Bus (US$43, 10 hours, 6am)
Car & motorcycle
If you drive your own vehicle into El Salvador, you must show a driver's license (an international driving permit is accepted) and proof that you own the car. You must also fill out extensive forms. Car insurance is both available and advisable but is not required - you should double check at the border in case this has changed. Vehicles may remain in El Salvador for 30 days. Those travelers wishing to stay longer should leave the country and drive back in rather than attempt to deal with the Transport Ministry.
^ Back to top
Entering the destination
Entering El Salvador
Entering El Salvador is a relatively painless procedure. Salvadoran immigration officials are well-known to be efficient, polite and professional. They are also more scrutinizing than in most Central American countries, carefully checking all entry and exit stamps (so don't overstay your visa!). The procedures are the same whether you enter the country at an airport or at a border: visitors must present their passport, fill out a simple tourist card and pay a US$10 entrance fee.
^ Back to top
Air
El Salvador's international airport, Aeropuerto Internacional Comalapa(SAL; 2339 8264), is located about 50km southeast of San Salvador. It is a major Central and Latin American hub, and a gateway to and from North American cities like Los Angeles, New York and San Francisco. The following airlines fly to and from San Salvador, and have offices in the capital
American Airlines (airline code AA; 2298 0777; Edificio La Centroamericana, Alameda Roosevelt at 59a Av Sur; 8am-6pm Mon-Fri & 8am-noon Sat; hub Dallas-Fort Worth)
Continental Airlines(airline code CO; 2207 2040; Metrocentro, 2nd fl; 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat; hub Houston)
Copa Airlines (airline code CM; 2209 2672; World Trade Center I; 89 Av Norte & Calle El Mirador; 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat; hub Panama City)
Delta Air Lines (airline code DL; 2275 9292; World Trade Center I, 89a Av Norte & Calle del Mirador;8am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-11am Sat; hub Atlanta)
TACA (2267 8222; airline codeTA; Galerías Escalón mall, street level; 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-5pm Sat, 9am-5pm Sun; hub San Salvador)
United Airlines (airline code UA; 2279 3900; Galerías Escalón mall, street level; 8:30am-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat; hub Chicago/O'Hare).

Introduction to Vietnam

　　Vietnam's narrow borders bulge against the ceaseless bustle of Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, two modern metropolises tempered by colonial architecture and tree-lined boulevards. Tranquility rests by the crumbling temples, wood-paneled pagodas and verdant valleys of rural Vietnam; divers at Nha Trang plunge the glistening green of the South China Sea to explore a rainbow of coral and neon-clad fish. And everywhere there's the food: whether slurping spicy noodles from Saigon street stalls or savoring French croissants in a Hue patisserie Vietnamese cuisine is full-flavored, fascinating and affordable.

Cities
A compelling clash of commercial clout and colonial grandeur, Ho Chi Minh City (formerly known as Saigon) flanks soaring skyscrapers with tree-lined boulevards and a lingering aura of French finesse. Find refuge from the endless flow of mopeds that surge and splutter their way through capital Hanoi in the humble temples and quaint craft shops of its Old Quarter. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, ancient Hoi An's crumbing facades are illuminated by the soft glow of lantern light.
Countryside
Soggy swathes of rice paddies dominate the verdant Mekong Delta, but the mighty Mekong River also ripples past blossoming fruit orchards and towering sugarcane fields before tumbling into the South China Sea. The arid plains of central Mui Ne reveal cascades of sand dunes that gleam white, pink and gold in the sun. In northern Vietnam, the mountainous region of Sapa is a dizzying weave of lush trails and remote villages occupied by traditional hill tribes.
Coast
The sweeping curl of Nha Trang's crescent-shaped beach overlooks a shimmering emerald stretch of the South China Sea. Divers and snorkelers drift over the soft coral that spreads from outlying islands, casually guarded by luminescent shoals of butterfly and angelfish. East of Hanoi, Halong Bay is an ethereal landscape of towering limestone karsts that rise forebodingly from its silvery waters.
Eating and Drinking
Hearty bowls of steaming pho -- a fragrant soup served with chicken or beef, a fistful of noodles and crunchy bean sprouts -- are served everywhere. Regional variations might add a kick of ginger, zest of lime or shaving of cinnamon. Colonial influence means crusty baguettes and sugar-scented pastries are an unexpected Ho Chi Minh City specialty. Perch on a plastic stool at one of Hanoi's roadside stalls and sip bia hoi, freshly brewed, frothy Vietnamese beer.

Introducing El Salvador

　　El Salvador sneaks up on you: in lefty lounge bars in San Salvador, at sobering museums and war memorials, and along lush cloud-forest trails; it's a place of remarkable warmth and intelligence, made all the more appealing for being so unexpected.

Travellers tend to skip El Salvador, wooed by marquee destinations such as Guatemala and Costa Rica, and unnerved by stories of civil war and gang violence. But the war ended almost 20 years ago, and crime, while serious, is almost exclusively played out between rival gangs; tourists are virtually never involved. And though El Salvador has fewer protected areas than its neighbors, you get them practically to yourself – including pristine forests, active volcanoes and sparkling lakes.
The only place you might find a crowd is on Punta Roca, El Salvador’s most famous surfing spot – it happens to be one of the best right point breaks in the world, yet is a ghost town compared to lesser swells in Costa Rica and elsewhere. And when it comes to cities, none in Central America is smarter or cooler than San Salvador, with first-rate universities, museums and galleries, a vibrant bar and live-music scene, and an array of progressive NGOs, both local and international.

Introduction to Maui

Maui, called the Valley Isle, may be just a small dot in the vast Pacific Ocean, but it offers myriad experiences. Float weightless through rainbows of tropical fish, stand atop a 10,000-foot volcano and watch the sunrise paint the sky, or wander back in time to the days when whalers and missionaries fought for the soul of Lahaina. The ""real"" Hawaii exists, for sure, from the heart-pounding hike to the volcano summit of Mount Haleakala, to lazing on the sandy beaches. 

Things to Do
Don mask, fins, and snorkel the underwater wonderlands of exotic coral and tropical fish in Molokini. World-championship windsurfing contests are held at Hookipa, on the north shore, where top-ranked competitors twirl and dance on the waves. Inland, the Enchanting Floral Gardens at Kula invite fragrant strolls. A drive along the twisty Hana Highway takes you through a verdant rain forest for a glimpse of untouched Maui. Back along the shore, sun and swim at Kapalua Beach or Wailea Beach.
Shopping
Maui is home to many resident artists who show their works in dozens of galleries and countless gift shops across the island. The island proffers an agricultural cornucopia of speciality products that includes Kaanapali coffee. For souvenirs, prowl the touristy boutiques in Lahaina and Kihei, or visit the Shops at Wailea for designers such as Louis Vuitton and Tiffany. Hawaiian treasures and trinkets abound on Main and Market streets in Wailuku.
Nightlife and Entertainment
Nightlife in Maui begins at sunset, when all eyes turn westward for astonishing views of the sun dipping into the water, especially the panoramic vistas in Kaanapali and West Maui. Later, revelers head to upbeat bars in Makawao and Lahaina for mai tais and margaritas. The live music scene is fertile, with bars and clubs hosting reggae, jazz, and Hawaiian slack-key bands in Kapalua and in Makawao.
Restaurants and Dining
Maui's star chefs create menus with a dazzling culinary stew of local ingredients and fresh fish like succulent ahi and Kona lobster. You can dine well at Lahaina's open-air waterfront establishments, where the view comprises half of the experience. Splurge on a juicy filet mignon at a bistro at the Haiku Cannery Marketplace or Vietnamese in Wailuku. Upcountry, hunt down the low-key or ethnic spots in Makawao for banana and guava breads or fresh pineapple. Don't miss a traditional luau (open-air feast) on the beach.

 

Introduction to Atlanta

　　The hometown of Rhett Butler and Scarlett O'Hara has come a long way since the Civil War era. These days Atlantans are as likely to have moved here from elsewhere as to be born Southerners. The culture of this diverse New South metropolis reveals itself at the High Museum of Art, the bohemian shops of Little Five Points and the international dining scene found along Buford Highway. Don't worry, there are still plenty of places to eat grits and buy a souvenir copy of Gone With the Wind in Atlanta.

Things to Do
Discover the inventor of the 24-hour news cycle on a tour of CNN, where guides give behind-the-scenes tours of studios and let guests record their own newscasts. While modern Atlanta reports the news these days, the city has contributed many chapters to American history. Its most powerful historic site is the Martin Luther King Jr. National Historic Site, with Rev. King's boyhood home, Ebenezer Baptist Church, and his tomb engraved, "Free at last, Free at last, Thank God Almighty, I'm Free at last."
Shopping
Go to the Atlanta neighborhood of Buckhead for trendsetter labels like Giorgio Armani and Zara. Just south of Buckhead is Bennett Street, a former warehouse district now converted into galleries and shops specializing in art, decorative accessories and antiques. For a little something edgier, Atlantans head for the boutiques of Virginia Highland, where chunky jewelry, bohemian dresses and the latest boots fill shop windows.
Nightlife and Entertainment
When the temperatures rise -- and they rise early in Atlanta -- there's no better place to catch a cool breeze than from a rooftop bar in Midtown. Atlantans love to party. Shout and F.A.B. are trendy mainstays, while Flip Flops attracts a younger crowd for cocktails and dancing. From April through September the Atlanta Braves play baseball at Turner Field. It's worthwhile to arrive early for a tour, playtime at the Tooner Field playground or a visit to the ballpark's museum.
Restaurants and Dining
Grits and sweet tea are traditions of a Southern diet, and no one makes them better than Mary Mac's Tea Room. This sprawling restaurant serves fluffy buttermilk biscuits and fried chicken. First-timers get a free cup of pot likker soup, made from the stock of boiled collard greens. Look for lighter fare at Horseradish Grill, where Southern traditions meet a global palate. For a truly international experience, head for Buford Highway. Family-owned restaurants along this stretch serve authentic foods from Venezuela, Vietnam and Korea.